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Kelly J's Easy Projects...for kids of all ages!


Picture Perfect Pillow


  • Cream printable photo-transfer fabric
  • Vertical photos in digital form on your computer, three
  • 45-inch pastel print cotton fabrics; yellow; green, 1/8 yard each; pink, 1/4 yard; coordinating backing, 1/2 yard
  • 8-inch square fabric/crochet doily
  • Light green piping, 1 3/4 yards
  • 1/8 -inch off-white satin ribbon, 1/2 yard
  • Two 3/4 -inch off-white flat buttons
  • 14 inch square pillow form
  • Miscellaneous items; tea bags; water container; scissors; ruler; iron; straight pins; sewing machine; matching sewing threads; sewing needle

*June Tailor Computer Printer Fabric and a Wimpole Street Creations doily were used in the sample project.


1. Working on your computer, enlarge or reduce each photo image to fit a 4½ x 5½ inch rectangle. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to print the photos onto the photo-transfer fabric.

2. From each printed fabric photo, cut a 4½ x 5½ -inch rectangle. From yellow fabric, cut four 1x5 ½ -inch and two 1x14 ½ -inch strips. From green fabric, cut two 1½x14 ½ -inch strips. And from pink fabric, cut two 3½x14 ½ -inch strips.

3. To make the pillow, sew all seams right sides together using a ¼ -inch seam allowance. Press seams to the sides with less bulk.

4. Sew the 5½ -inch yellow strips between the photos and the outer vertical edges of the photo block. Sew the 14½ -inch yellow strips to the top and bottom of the photo block. Sew the green, hen the pink strips to the top and bottom edges.

5. Tea-dye the doily, dry and press flat. Cut the doily in half diagonally to make two triangles. Cut the ribbon in half and weave t through the crochet openings on each doily triangle.

6. Refer to the photo to pin the doily triangles centered on the top and bottom of the pillow top. Let the cut edges extend just beyond the pillow top edges, and then trim the doily edges even. Slipstitch the crochet edges in place and baste the cut edges to the pillow top.

7. Sew a button to the fabric corner of each doily triangle.

8. Sew the piping around the pillow tip, ¼ -inch from the edge. Begin and end in a bottom corner and clip the corners as you sew.

9. To finish, cut a 14 ½ -inch square pillow backing. Sew the front to the back along the piping stitching, leaving a 12-inch opening along the bottom edge. Turn right side out. Insert the pillow form and slipstitch the opening closed.

Button Necklace


(For a 26” - 28” Necklace)

  • Serger cording foot
  • 80 -100 assorted flat or shank-style buttons
  • 1 - 2 spools of heavy decorative thread (for upper looper)
  • 2 cones of coordinating serger thread (for needle and lower looper)
  • 1 reel of 6# clear fishing line
  • Small scissors
  • Tape measure
  • Jewelry or small nosed pliers

Jewelry findings:

  • Two 1 1/2”-2” eye pins
  • One clasp set of choice
  • Two jump rings
  • Two cone ends
  • Clear nail polish
  • Twist ties


  • BERNINA® serger
  • Most other sergers with cording foot

Serger Settings

  • 3-thread rolled hem stitch:
         Right Needle: Serger thread – tension 6
         Upper Looper: Decorative thread – tension 7
         Lower Looper: Serger thread – tension 7
  • Stitch Length: 1.5mm
  • Cutting Width: 1mm
  • Roll hem lever engaged
  • Rotate the knife to a non-cutting position

Note: Tension settings are approximate and may need to be fine tuned for individual sergers.

Test Serge a Strand

Lower the presser foot; hold all three thread tails taut and serge for approximately 12”. Check to see that the stitches are uniformly serged, smooth, and rounded.

If the chain is bumpy: Lengthen stitch length.
If the chain is flat, not rounded: Check to see that all thread guides are threaded.
Tighten lower looper; loosen upper looper. Slightly tighten needle. Check to see that the cutting width is set at 1.
If the chain jams at beginning: Hold taut when beginning to serge.

Serging the Chains

Note: The necklace is made of 15 strands, 10 with buttons, and 5 without. Serge each strand until it is approximately 36” in length for a finished length of 26” - 28”.

Thread 8 to 10 buttons onto fishing line, leaving the line connected to reel, and placing the reel and buttons in your lap. Serge 3” - 4” of chain, then insert the fishing line to the right of the needle and to the left of the outer edge of the serged chain. While holding the thread chain and fishing line behind the foot, begin to chain over the fishing line, incorporating it into the strand.

Chain a 10” strand, with the fishing line included. Stop, lower needle into machine to hold the place in the chain. Raise the presser foot and swing 2” - 3” of fishing line to the left of the foot, out of the way of the chain. Slide up the first button.

Lower the presser foot, and chain 4 - 5 stitches without the line included. Raise the foot and swing the fishing line back into the original chaining position.

Lower the foot, and once again including the fishing line, chain for about 2”. Pull down on the loop created by the fishing line when it was out of the chain. This will snug the button up against the serged chain.

Repeat the previous steps to add additional buttons onto the strand for a length of 16”. Chain an additional 10” without buttons, for a total of 36”. This completes the first strand.

Serge 9 more strands with buttons.

Serge five 36”-long strands with fishing line but without buttons, using the same settings as with the button strands.

Assembling the Necklace

On a flat surface, arrange all 15 strands atop each other. Using twist ties, temporarily tie each end 2” - 3” from the last button. Twist the necklace several times to blend strands. Hold and mark the desired length.

Bend each eye pin into a circle by placing its straight end inside the eye. At your desired ending point on each side of the necklace, insert all 15 strands into the resulting loop. Using jewelry pliers, pull down on the straight end of the eye pin, tightening the loop around the strands. Fold the excess of the strands toward the necklace, having the straight end of the eye pin pointing away from the necklace body.

Using a double length of thread, tightly wrap the strands right next to the eye pin; knot the thread and coat with clear nail polish. When dry, clip the excess strand tails close to the wrapping.

Insert the straight end of the eye pin into the hole in the cone end, and then pull the cone down to hide the wrapped necklace end inside the cone. Form a loop with the excess wire of the eye pin, and attach it to a jump ring. Remove twist ties.

Repeat for the opposite side.

Attach the jump rings to each side of the necklace clasp to complete the necklace.


Fun and Frilly Bag

Fun frilly bag from Coats & Clark @ www.coatsandclark.comCreating one-of-a-kind bags is fun, and a great way to showcase your creative talents! This whimsical bag began with a basic shape, and we added a touch of embroidery, and splash of color and texture. The loopy fringe is made from Red Heart® Baby Clouds™ yarn, and that is just the beginning.

Coats offers a wide range of products, each designed to inspire creativity. We invite you to explore and enjoy — the ideas are endless!

Skill Level: Easy


  • Coats Rayon Thread (D63, D83, D74) or Coats Polyester Embroidery Thread (D75)
  • Coats Polyester Bobbin Thread (D78)
  • Coats Dual Duty® All-purpose Thread (Art. 210)
  • Red Heart Baby Clouds or Light & Lofty Yarn (E710 or E708) to  coordinate with fabric
  • Fabric: ½ yard
  • Interfacing: 1 yard (optional)
  • Stabilizer

Tip: If fabric needs more body in order to hold it’s shape when sewn into a bag, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric before constructing bag.



Straps: Cut two strips 3" x 16". Cut on the lengthwise grain for stronger straps and to reduce stretching.

  • Back & Front: Cut 2 of the diagram  (Fig 1)
  • Interfacing: Cut 2 of the diagram (Fig 1)
Figure 1


Straps: Fold strips lengthwise with right sides together.
Stitch the length of the strap using a ¼" seam allowance.
Turn to right side. Press.

Embroidery: If desired, fuse interfacing to wrong side of the front and back bag fabric. Select a pattern or design for embroidery. Choose colors to coordinate with yarn and compliment or contrast bag fabric. Place stabilizer under fabric and embroider design. With right sides together, stitch the bottom of the bag, then the side seams together using a ½" seam allowance.

To shape the bottom corners, fold bag with one side seam centered on the bottom seam. Sew across bag 2" from the corner.

On top edges of bag front, measure and mark 4" from each seam for placement of the strap. Baste one short end of strap to the bag centered over the first mark, edges even. Baste the other end of the strap over the second mark. (This may seem upside-down, but strap will be folded up in the next step.) Repeat for back.

Press ¼" to wrong side at top of bag, then press 1¼" to inside of bag. With straps in upright position, stitch around top of bag, close to upper and lower folds. Double stitch strap areas.

Loopy Fringe: Wrap yarn around fingers 5 or 6 times. Slip yarn off fingers and place end of loops over the line of stitching 1" from top edge of bag as shown in Fig 2.

Figure 2

Note: The bulk of the yarn should be to the right of the machine needle.)

Set machine for a zigzag stitch. Stitch yarn to bag (Fig 3), stopping once the group of loops is sewn. Wrap yarn around fingers again, place on bag and sew. Don’t worry if loops are not the same size, that’s part of the look! Continue in this manner all the way around the top of bag. Loops will fall down over stitching like fringe when bag sits upright.

Figure 3
Learn to sew groovy tote bags!

Learn to sew groovy tote bags

You will need the following for making a tote bag:
1 yard material cut into the following sizes:
2 pieces 13 x 17 inch
2 pieces 3 x 26 inch for straps

Place 13 x 17 inch rectangles right sides together. Sew the two pieces together around the three sides leaving the top open. Turn the top edge over 1 inch and hem in place. Set aside. To make straps place each piece of 3 x 26 inch material in half with right sides together. Stitch along sides.

Turn right sides out. Pin straps to each piece of 13 x 17 inch material 4 inches from the edge.

Stitch over straps backstitching to secure.

You can make this tote bag in various sizes, experiment if you would like a different size.


Denim Organizer

This fun organizer, made from the legs of cut-off jeans, is a great recycling project. The finished hem of the jeans creates the top of the organizer’s pockets, so there is no need to bind the edges.

This project can be embellished in many ways. We used machine embroidery and decorative stitches. Other options include hand embroidery, rickrack or other trim, or appliqué. It could also be personalized and the pockets labeled.


  • Jeans Legs: 3 pairs of legs
  • Denim fabric: 1 yard (91.4cm)
  • Cord for hanging: 1 yard (91.4cm)
  • Dowel: 24 inches (61.0cm)
  • Coats Dual Duty Plus® Extra Strong Jeans Thread (N574) or
  • Coats Dual Duty Plus® All-purpose Thread (Art 200): color 5 Copenhagen or to match denim
  • Coats Rayon Thread-30 wt. (Art D93): color 182 Spark Gold and Coats Rayon Thread-40 wt. (Art. D63): Color 51 Chona Brown were used in this project
  • Stabilizer for embroidery.


1. Organizer fabric: Cut 2 pieces of fabric 22 inches x 25 inches (55.9cm x 63.5cm).

2. Pockets: Cut the pant leg sections apart at the outer seam, trimming away the seam. 1st row: Trim 3 leg pieces 5 inches (12.7cm) high by 10 inches (25.4cm) wide. 2nd row: trim 3 leg pieces 9 1/2 inches (24.1cm) high by 10 inches wide. (25.4cm).

3. Embellish pockets as desired with decorative stitching, appliqué, machine or hand embroidery, or trims.

4. To form each pocket row, sew the three same-size leg sections together.

5. Mark the pockets as shown for folding pleats (Illustration 1). At the two ends, fold solid line to dotted line. At seams, fold solid lines to seam line; do not overlap. Baste pleats in place at lower edge.

6. Attaching top row: Mark a line on organizer fabric 11 1/2 inches (29.2cm) from top edge. Place pocket row on fabric, right sides together, with the lower raw edge of pockets against the line (Illustration 2). Stitch, 1/2 inch (1.3cm) from edge. Press seam allowance toward pocket. Fold pocket section right-side-up; press. Baste side seams. Using Jeans thread or all-purpose thread, stitch in the ditch along seams in pocket row to form individual pockets.

7. Bottom row: Fold pleats as above and baste. Place pocket section on organizer fabric, right side facing you, aligning raw edges. Baste sides and bottom edge of pocket. Stitch in the ditch along seams in pocket row to form individual pockets.

8. Place backing fabric on top of organizer, right sides together. Stitch together, using a 1/2-inch (1.3cm) seam allowance. At the top corners, leave a 1-inch  (2.5cm) opening in the side seams for inserting a dowel or curtain rod. At the lower edge, leave a 6-inch (15.2cm) opening for turning.

9. Trim corners diagonally. Grade lower edge to reduce bulk. Press the seams open before turning. Pay particular attention to places that are thick due to jeans seams. Turn to right side. Press. Hand sew opening in lower edge closed.

10.Insert dowel, and attach a cord for hanging. For better stability, use a curtain rod and brackets for hanging.


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